As I'm teaching and talking with stitchers, I am always surprised by the number of little tips that are new to even the most experienced stitchers... even me!  Check out the April/2017 tip, to see how I picked up a technique for working continuous quarter stitches which makes my work look much better - I firmly believe there's always something new to learn.

So I thought that I would take a moment to explain a few of the 'basics', and maybe even the why behind them.

First of all, before you even begin stitching consider your materials.  For example, is your fabric large enough to allow for framing or finishing?  Since dyes can vary from dye lot to dye lot, have you purchased enough floss to complete the project - better to be generous than sorry!  Have you chosen a project you will enjoy stitching, which isn't too difficult for your skill level, even if it provides a slight challenge to increase that level? 

Second, make a 'working copy' of the pattern - most designers do not mind this, as long as all copies are destroyed once the project is stitched.  A copy allows you to mark off each row, or section, as it is stitched, so you always know where you are working.  Another good idea is to put a marking pin, safety pin, or small piece of floss to designate the TOP of the stitching until enough is completed that you can see which way is up <wink>.  This can be especially important if you are working on something like a topper or tree skirt, where you work around a circle.  You want to keep the fabric in the same position and turn the pattern, so that you're stitching faces the same way down the entire piece.  If you turn the fabric or trust me, it will look horrible!

Third, now you're ready to stitch, check out the July/2017 tip to learn about LOOP STARTS, if you don't already know about that cool technique ... for now, just let me say that it is very important to make sure all tails (both beginning and ending) are well secured, or they will come loose - usually showing through after the piece is framed, which is VERY annoying!  If the item will get some wear - like a topper or tree skirt, then I suggest running the tail in 2 directions.  In any case, be sure all tails run AWAY from the edge of the stitching, again so they don't show through the fabric (this is my pet peeve when people do model stitching for me, LOL, NEAT EDGES AND TAILS PEOPLE!

Fourth, while some stitchers cut their fabric with a 3" allowance on each side and begin stitching 1.5" in and down from a corner; if you begin stitching in the centre of your fabric, working out from the centre of your pattern, and then the finished stitching will always be centred, and allow an equal fabric allowance all the way around!

Fifth, when stitching, be sure you wash your hands before starting, keep pets away from your work, and remove the hoop after each stitching session.  All of these things will keep the fabric clean.  Once the project is finished, wash in mild dish soap and cool to warm water, and rinse well; finally place the stitching face down on a clean towel, and press from the back with a hot dry iron.  Lift the iron and move it around the stitching until the fabric and floss are fairly dry.  Pressing from the back (and using a towel), allows the stitching to raise off the fabric and become more prominent.  I generally let the piece sit overnight after pressing, to be sure it's completely dry before mounting and framing.

Sixth (and the last tip I'm going to pass along), let's talk for a bit about floss.  There are so many kinds!  Shiny, fuzzy, over-dyed... some of which require delicate handling.  Sometimes the best thing you can do is just use shorter lengths (like with Kreinik blending filaments).  Sometimes a different technique is needed - for example, when working with either a fuzzy floss or over-dyed floss, you generally want to complete BOTH legs of each stitch as you work across the row. 

In the case of fuzzy floss, you do this because it IS fuzzy, and it can be hard to see where you want to stitch on the way back across the row. 

With floss that changes color, using the same technique (working both legs of each stitch) allows the color changes to flow through the design.  If you worked the bottom leg across the row ( /  /  /  / ), then the top leg back across the row (to form an X - XXXX), you would get a mottled look, as the color changes would be different on top and bottom.  However, that might be a great look for say, a treetop! 

That's it for this month... keep learning!